That July Fourth hot dog will probably be slathered with everyday yellow, but for more refined preparations, it’s Dijon that’s in demand. The city in France’s Burgundy region south of Paris, the center of French mustard production today, is just one stop on the journey that mustard has taken over 5,000 years, becoming a favorite condiment worldwide. This lively book traces the history, focusing on France and notably on Maison Fallot, a traditional Burgundian producer. There are also recipes for 40 dishes, many of them complex creations like Daniel Boulud’s Chaud-Froid of Free-Range Poularde that consists of nine separate recipes, not including plating. Others are appealingly simple, including pork tenderloin with Dijon mustard sauce from Christophe Muller of the Paul Bocuse flagship restaurant.
“Mustard: A Treasure from Burgundy” by Bénédicte Bortoli, 21 chefs, 40 recipes, Abrams, $35.